Ceramic Coating 101: Part 2 of 4 – Decontamination

So, you’ve just completed the safe-wash, and your car is looking fresh and clean. But as satisfying as that might be, there’s a crucial next step before applying your ceramic coating: decontamination. This step is all about ensuring that your vehicle’s paintwork is as smooth and contaminant-free as possible, providing the perfect surface for the coating to bond with.

 

Why Decontamination Matters

 

Even after a thorough wash, microscopic contaminants can remain embedded in your vehicle’s paint. These can include things like iron deposits from brake dust, tar spots, tree sap, and even industrial fallout. Left untreated, these contaminants can compromise the durability and finish of your ceramic coating, reducing its effectiveness and lifespan.

Decontamination not only enhances the longevity of your coating but also ensures a flawless finish by removing these embedded impurities. The process involves both chemical and mechanical methods to address different types of contaminants.

 

Tools & Products You’ll Need:

 

  • Before diving in, let’s gather the necessary tools and products:
    • Iron Fallout Remover: A chemical solution designed to dissolve iron particles embedded in your paint.
    • Tar Remover: Specifically formulated to break down tar spots and other sticky contaminants.
    • Clay Bar/Clay Mitt: A mechanical method for removing surface contaminants that washing alone cannot remove.
    • Detailing Spray: Used as a lubricant for the clay bar to glide smoothly over the paint.
    • Microfiber Cloths: For wiping down surfaces after applying decontamination products.

 

 

Step 1: Iron Fallout Removal

 

The first phase of decontamination involves using an iron fallout remover. Iron particles are tiny, but they can cause significant damage if left untreated, leading to rust spots and etching in your paint.

  1. Apply the Iron Remover: Spray the iron remover evenly across your vehicle’s surface, focusing especially on lower panels where brake dust tends to accumulate.
  2. Wait and Watch: After a few minutes, you’ll notice the solution changing color (often to a purple or red hue) as it reacts with the iron particles. This indicates the product is working.
  3. Rinse Thoroughly: Once the reaction is complete, rinse the vehicle thoroughly with water to remove the dissolved iron particles and any leftover product.

 

Dissolving iron particles from the paintwork.

 

Step 2:  Tackling Tar Spots

 

Washing your car also means choosing the right shampoo, and by ‘right’, we mean a pH neutral solution; one that is easy on your paintwork and won’t do any damage to pre-existing coats or wax layers. In effect, your shampoo’s job is to safely lift off any residue from the surface of your vehicle, including what was acted on by the snow foam solution mentioned in the previous section.

Let’s note something important at this stage: you’ll want to use a wash mitt and not a sponge! This is because with a quality mitt, dirt, grime and other potentially abrasive elements, like brake dust and sea salt, have less of a chance of leaving scratches and swirl marks on your car. Gliding easily off your car’s paintwork, they are great for trapping foreign elements in their folds and lifting them away from the surface of your car.

 

Step 3: Claying the Paint

 

Even after chemical decontamination, your car’s paint may still have embedded contaminants. This is where the clay bar (or clay mitt) comes in. It’s the final step in ensuring your paint is perfectly smooth.

  1. Prepare the Surface: Start by spraying a generous amount of detailing spray onto a small section of the car. The spray acts as a lubricant for the clay bar, preventing it from marring the paint.
  2. Clay the Paint: Glide the clay bar (or mitt) gently over the lubricated section in straight lines. You’ll feel the clay picking up contaminants as it moves. Continue until the area feels completely smooth.
  3. Wipe Clean: Once the section is smooth, wipe it down with a clean microfiber cloth to remove any residue. Repeat this process over the entire car, re-lubricating with detailing spray as necessary.
  4. Check Your Progress: Run your hand over the paint after each section; it should feel smooth as glass. If you feel any remaining roughness, re-clay the area until it’s contaminant-free.

 

Final Rinse & Inspection

 

After claying, give your car one final rinse to remove any remaining residue from the decontamination process. Take a moment to inspect the paint closely. At this point, it should be smooth, clean, and free of contaminants.

 

 

Moving Forward

 

Now that your car’s paintwork is fully decontaminated, it’s primed and ready for the next stage: paint correction. In Part 3 of our series, we’ll delve into the intricacies of correcting any imperfections in your paint, ensuring that your car’s surface is immaculate before applying the ceramic coating. Stay tuned!

 

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Ceramic Coating 101: Part 1 of 4 – How to Safely Wash Your Car

“How you do anything is how you do everything”, the saying goes. If our clients have taught us anything, it’s that if you’re committed enough, there’s no reason why you can’t ceramic coat your own car. Join us as we explore step 1 in our 4-part D.I.Y ceramic coating series.

 

What You Will Need

 

Whether it’s your first attempt at ceramic coating or your hundredth, safe-washing your vehicle should always be your starting point. And to get off on the right foot, we recommend choosing the right tools and products. After all, the last thing you want – if ceramic coating is your end-goal – is to leave scratches and contaminants sealed under that precious layer of SiO2 (silicone dioxide).

Of course, safe-washing your car isn’t always necessarily a stepping stone to ceramic coating; it could also be a step that precedes other interventions like paint correction or just simply part of your car maintenance routine. Either way, the below is a list of the items you will need.

 

Required Tools/ Wash Media:

 

  • Snow Foam
  • pH-Neutral Car Shampoo
  • Foam lance and pressure washer or foam sprayer.
  • Wash mitt.
  • Wheel mitt.
  • Rim Brush.
  • x3 Buckets.
  • Grit guards.
  • Drying towel.

 

 

Spray, Don’t Touch

 

Before laying a finger (or wash mitt) on your car, the first order of duty should be to use snow foam. Administered with a lance, snow foam dissolves stubborn and / or abrasive particles from your car’s paint lacquer by being left to linger on your car’s surface for a specific amount of time.

 

 

If you don’t already own a lance, we strongly recommend the Extreme Snow Foam Lance Kit, a tool that easily attaches to your pressure washer thanks to a handy adapter (sold separately) and also distributes the snow foam solution over your vehicle evenly. Alternatively, if you don’t mind a mechanical solution, the ADBL BFF & BFS kit (shown below) is an excellent substitute – great if you don’t have a pressure washer in your garage and easier on the wallet too.

 

 

As far as what goes into your foamer of choice, both GYEON’s Q²M Foam and ADBL’s Yeti range are excellent candidates. The choice will depend on price, the individual strengths of each product and how – most importantly – they apply to you. What we can say, though, is that, when used in a traditional foam lance, Q²M Foam has a 1:5 dilution ratio whereas in ADBL Yeti’s case, it’s 1:9.

 

 

Now that you’ve made up your mind as to which tools and solutions work best for you, it’s time to coat your car in snow foam. Ensure you lay on a thick, even layer of foam and wait the allocated amount of time. Finally, rinse off the solution to complete this stage off the pre-wash.

 

Getting Down to Business

 

Washing your car also means choosing the right shampoo, and by ‘right’, we mean a pH neutral solution; one that is easy on your paintwork and won’t do any damage to pre-existing coats or wax layers. In effect, your shampoo’s job is to safely lift off any residue from the surface of your vehicle, including what was acted on by the snow foam solution mentioned in the previous section.

Let’s note something important at this stage: you’ll want to use a wash mitt and not a sponge! This is because with a quality mitt, dirt, grime and other potentially abrasive elements, like brake dust and sea salt, have less of a chance of leaving scratches and swirl marks on your car. Gliding easily off your car’s paintwork, they are great for trapping foreign elements in their folds and lifting them away from the surface of your car.

 

[layerslider id=”1″]

 

Lastly, and to further minimize the chances of scratching your car, always work your way with your wash mitt from the top of your car to the bottom, starting from the roof. This is because brake dust and other coarse elements are typically found near the lower part of your vehicle.

 

Did you Say “Bucket” or “Buckets”?

 

Before we move on to drying your car, it’s worth taking a moment to sing the praises of having more than one bucket in your detailing arsenal. And we don’t just mean any old bucket – we mean something like these 5 Gallon plastic buckets, containers that are big enough to keep heavy, abrasive elements (such as brake dust and other contaminants) at the bottom, and as far away from your wash mitt and paint lacquer as possible.

 

 

In fact, we strongly recommend using a dual bucket system.

Here, one bucket holds your shampoo and water solution, whereas the second bucket is used to rinse your wash mitt in between passes on your car’s paintwork. That way there is very little to no transference of contaminants from your wash mitt back to other areas of your car.

 

 

 

 

Above: A bucket dolly for convenience and a GritGuard (a bucket insert that keeps contaminants at bay).

 

Rims First

 

But is there room for a third bucket? We would say, yes, a dedicated bucket for your wheels and rims is essential. After all, don’t forget that your wheels come into contact with some of the most abrasive elements while you’re on the road – we’re talking brake dust, tar and all kinds of grime. Getting them into contact with your paintwork via your wash mitt is the last thing you want to do.

 

 

To prevent this, we recommend investing in a good quality rim cleaning chemical, like GYEON’s Q²M Iron WheelCleaner, along with a rim brush, and a third bucket for rinsing off any tools used in the process. If, on the other hand, you have baked-on brake dust you can use a stronger acid-based wheel cleaner like ADBL Wheel Warrior. Either way, agitate the rims thoroughly using the brush and a wheel mitt, then rinse off the solution.

Most important of all, make sure you keep your paintwork and rim cleaning tools separate to avoid transferring contaminants from one to the other.

Home and Dry

 

The next step is, of course, drying your vehicle. For this purpose, we recommend using a quality drying towel along with a dedicated blower like the BigBoi BLOWR Mini. The short of it is, you don’t only want to thoroughly dry the car; you also want to dislodge any leftover water from areas like wing mirrors and door handles; water which might dribble out later and give you a headache in the process.

Now that your car is dry, it’s time to pat yourself on the back, the safe-wash is complete. In the next post, we will move on to the next step in the ceramic coating process: decontamination.

 

 

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How to Clean Your Rims & Get Rid of Brake Dust

 

Like tooth decay, brake dust and grime will quickly build up in and around your rims. As any good detailer will tell you, the right tools, techniques and products are key to getting the right results.

 

How to Decontaminate Your Car’s Rims

 

The first step to cleaning your wheels is to make sure you have let your car cool down. Working in direct sunlight is something you should consider avoiding too. In both cases you’ll be saving your rims from prematurely drying and allowing the chemicals to set in and do their job.

Once you’re happy with your rims’ temperature, we recommend applying an appropriate brake dust cleaner. The choice of which cleaner to use will depend on the type of rims your car has; always look at the product description before making a purchase in this regard. Another consideration is the amount of brake dust there is, so if you’ve neglected your wheels for a while, it’s better to go for a stronger solution to tackle the problem effectively.

 

Some products, like ADBL Vampire Liquid + Detailing Brush and GYEON’s IronWheelCleaner are pH neutral, making them essentially safe on all types of rims and finishes, coated or not.

 

It’s important to thoroughly spray in and around the wheel when applying an iron rim decontaminator, and this includes behind the spokes (as pictured above; note the rim brush). Not doing so will make brake dust seep back out at the rinsing stage or when you eventually move your car.  This is where a detailing brush, like ADBL’s Wheel Sword, or a glove-shaped solution like GYEON’s WheelMitt, will come in handy. Reach in behind the spokes using your preferred tool and work the liquid into the lug holes and over the nuts too.

Rinsing and Tire Dressing

 

It’s key to follow the product instructions and wait the recommended amount of time before hosing the solution down and drying the rims. As you wait, you may want to use a separate product to clean the tire wall like GYEON’s Q2M TireCleaner and a dedicated brush like Q2M TireBrush. At any rate, it’s now time to dry down your rims with a blower and/or drying towel, and to apply a final flourish with some tire dressing (matte or shiny) to round off the factory-look.

 

 

 

 

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Why You Should Use a Car Drying Towel and the Best Way to Dry Your Car

 

Confused by all the car drying tool options? Join us as we explore two of the very best car drying towels in our store.

 

Why Use a Car Drying Towel? 

 

What distinguishes a drying towel from a chamois cloth? Well, a drying towel requires ZERO wringing and typically absorbs five to six times its weight in water. Unlike a leather cloth, it’s also not prone to harden if not cleaned and aired properly after each use.

 

But why are drying towels so highly sought after at the moment? The answer is that these new-generation drying tools are made from very soft, pliable synthetic strands of fabric known as microfibers. To give the consumer a measure of just how absorbent these towels are, the width of these microscopic fibres are measured in GSM, or grammes per square metre. The higher the GSM, the more water-stopping power they have, allowing you to dry multiple vehicles before the towel needs to be aired or washed. And because microfiber towels and cloths are made from extremely fine material, they are less likely to damage the top layer of your car: your car’s clear coat.

 

Our recommendation for a car drying towel is that it should at the very least be 500GSM.

 

Which Car Drying Towel Should You Choose?

 

Until very recently, we only sold one drying towel option at our store: the Liquid Elements’ Silverback Fusion: a 1100 GSM, German-manufactured towel with a 50 x 80cm form-factor. We love to use it in our regular detailing operation as it is purely such a breeze to hold down with both hands and get a car dry within minutes. Like most towels it is fully reusable after a regular machine wash at 60°C. View the product here.

But that’s not all! Fresh from the genius minds at GYEON we present to you the brand new Q²M SilkDryer EVO. An evolution on the 2015 original, it boasts a GSM of 530 and a whopping increase of 50% in global absorbency. We have already started making heavy-use of this amazing tool inside of our detailing studio and we are very impressed. It is available for purchase here.

Before we go, we will leave you with Yves Heylen from GYEON’s The Detailing Guru series to demonstrate the best way to dry your car:

 

 

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Introducing the GYEON Q²M Quick Detailer

There are tonnes of detailing products out there. The last thing you need is a shelf-full of tools collecting dust. In this blog post we place the spotlight on GYEON’s Q²M QuickDetailer.

(Text by James Borg for Prestige Detailing Malta)

 

 

When to Apply Gyeon Q²M QuickDetailer

 

After a typical wash, no matter how thorough you thought you were, there’s always something that escaped your attention.

Time and time again, you’ll wonder how you could have done some things better…or end up spending way longer than you would have wanted correcting oversights without achieving the desired result.

 

 

A 1000 millilitre transparent bottle of GYEON Q2M QuickDetailer. The bottle has a white sprayhead.

What could be better after washing your car than adding an extra level of gloss with a dedicated product from an industry professional? Meet the GYEON Q2M Quick Detailer.

 

We find that QD is best-suited for individuals who would like to apply an extra layer of gloss and slickness to their vehicle post-wash whilst comprehensively tackling water streaks, films of dust and fingerprints. It’s like spraying on some aftershave after some manscaping – it just rounds everything off.

QD is easy-to-apply, requiring only minimal effort to work into problematic, hard-to-reach areas. Just ensure you have a couple of detailing cloths to hand and you’re good to go.

Next, we will look into some best practices before and during the application of the product to help you achieve superior results.


Get Ready to Fire On All Cylinders

 

After you’re done washing your car (and before using the product), we recommend taking your vehicle for a quick spin around the block to loosen up any remaining water, then using the dry side of your microfibre cloth to wipe it down. Of course if you have a touchless car dryer, like the Bigboi BlowR Mini, you can skip the first of these steps altogether and use the dryer to dislodge the water instead.

 

Whatever the case, here are our tips:

 

Step 1: Wipe down any residual water with a dry microfiber cloth.

Step 2: Apply QD to the other side of the cloth and work it into the body. Rub it into wherever water streaks, fingerprints or dullness are present.

Step 3: Use a second microfiber cloth to polish it to perfection.

 

It’s important to point out that wherever dust is involved, it’s always best to treat the affected areas to some water and good, old-fashioned car shampoo. What you definitely don’t need is to create superficial scratches as you’re working QD (or any other similar product, for that matter) onto a dusty car surface.

The Perks of The Product

 

The great thing about Quick Detailer, is that it works by adding a layer of slickness to your car’s paintwork, making it harder for dust particles to cling onto its surface. Even better, it can be used as a drying aid straight out of the box. If you’ve freed up your car from the majority of the water – using, say, a drying towel – it’s easy to apply an even level of gloss all around your car with a few spritzes and a cloth.

A bottle of QD and a microfibre cloth can be easily stowed away in your car’s glove compartment, too. So if you don’t have your own studio or garage, you can easily get the job done at a regular car wash.

Last but certainly not least, like all good detailing products, its excellent for prevention. Mix in some sun and and untackled water streaks and you have a recipe for water spots. Leave enough time, and contaminants like brake dust and air-borne exhaust particles will slowly but surely build up on your car’s paint lacquer.

With products like the GYEON QuickDetailer, you can up your vehicle’s defence and enjoy a better wash. We believe it deserves a spot in anyone’s garage or detailing trolley.

 

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The Rub: Can Sunlight Affect My Car’s Paintwork and Interiors?

cherry red Ferrari undergoing a ceramic coating package service

You’d be hard-pressed to meet a local who hasn’t at the very least heard it said: our island is statistically the sunniest country in Europe. 

It’s a lesser-known fact, however, that even high-end cars suffer the withering effects of all the heat and direct sunlight Malta enjoys.

We have seen this first-hand in our detailing studio. Ferrari’s, for example, are notorious for the deterioration of their interior cabin surfaces and fabrics. And THAT cherry-red colour which is synonymous with the Maranello-based manufacturer? Well, that’s not immune either.

(Don’t believe us? Check out our portfolio images for some Ferrari before and after shots.) 

Some questions that might be crossing your mind at this point may include: Should I be panicking? Are sun spots and rust suddenly going to start appearing all over my car’s body?

 

The Detail: Paint Depth Analysis and its Benefits in UV Protecting your Car

 

The key factor relates to colour – darker colours, of course, attract more light.

White car owners are probably the luckiest breed but we would argue that no matter the colour, the material composition of your vehicle’s surface layer (known as the clear coat) can be the difference between a low or high-maintenance approach to UV protecting your car. This is doubly true if your car has been re-sprayed at any point before or after purchasing it.

First, some quick clarifications:

  • Going into the chemical components of these materials by car manufacturer or type would be a blog post in itself. For now, we will focus on what layers modern cars are typically composed of, and the benefits of using a paint depth analysis gauge (which we provide as a free service – explored further down in this post).
  • Lastly, we will leave our personal product recommendations in the conclusion to this post.

OK, back to it… The below image focuses on blunt and abrasive damage caused by everyday objects. Although we’re not interested in that aspect, the cross-sections do a good job of representing the distinct layers of a car’s paint composition, helping you to visualise what’s really protecting your car’s ‘skin’. 

 

(Source: National Institute of Standards and Technology – nist.gov)

 

The main takeaway as far as this blog post is concerned is that direct sunlight and heat, mixed in with accumulated deposits (especially glass particles), can work together by eating into your clear coat, causing further damage in the shape of sunspots, fade, or by working themselves into existing scratches (pictured above) that are more insidious and costly to treat. One of the worst case scenarios would be for rust to build up on any damaged surfaces (caused by the effects of the sun, or otherwise).

Nobody wants to run into unnecessary expenses. Understanding the composition of your car’s paint and fabrics better will allow you to choose the best value for money option for protecting your car.

This can be achieved with a procedure known as paint depth (or thickness) analysis, which we carry out for free at our detailing studio at Bilom Service Station in Luqa, to determine the layer distribution and chemical composition of your car’s overcoat.

(While we do not consider paint thickness gauges relevant for everyday do-it-yourselfers or weekend warriors, if you happen to be a budding detailer interested in setting up your own business or working in the industry, here is a video from Car Supplies Warehouse’s Youtube channel that examines the purpose of the tool in more detail):

 

 

The Finish: Protect Your Car and Beat the Heat

 

We’ve documented it elsewhere on our website and in our social media posts but it bears repeating: heat and direct sunlight can and will detract from the resale value of your car. This may not be a revelation to you – after all, your car begins to depreciate the minute those pristine rubber tyres hit the tarmac – but it does not mean you cannot take active steps to protect your investment by applying a layer of “sunscreen” to your car. 

 

Cost-effective ways to protect your car, according to statefarm.com include:

  • Park in the shade. It is the easiest form of protection. By avoiding direct sunlight, you’ll help keep your dash from drying and cracking. If it’s safe to do so, open the windows a crack to help lower the interior temperature and equalize the air pressure.
  • Use a windshield sun protector. It’s a way to keep your car cool and prevent sun damage. They may appear to be complicated to use, but these visors are actually quite easy to unfold and slide into place on your dash.
  • Wipe dash with a microfibre cloth. Dust and dirt can cause tiny scratches that can become worse over time. Wipe down the dash frequently to remove all particles. A low-gloss detailing product will also protect it and reduce glare.
  • Install seat covers. They not only protect leather and fabric seats, but they also help keep them cool.
  • Protect leather seats with a conditioner. The sun and heat can really do a number on them. To help avoid cracks or tears, keep seats clean, and apply leather conditioner often.

Source: https://www.statefarm.com/simple-insights/auto-and-vehicles/protect-your-car-from-the-damaging-effects-of-sun-and-heat

 

For a more long-lasting solution – which involves  investment in a specialised product – consider getting your vehicle’s paint job analysed for depth and composition first. And in terms of our chief recommendation for sun-shielding your vehicle, we recommend applying paint protection film to your car’s lacquer after the test has been carried out. This comes in the form of SiO2 coatings, like Q2Cancoat, Q2One, Q2Pure and Q2Matte, or the new GYEON EVO polysilazane-based range, all of which are available from our store. Such products effectively provide warranty-bound protection against the damage UV light can exert on paint jobs while enhancing the brightness and sheen of your auto’s coating in one convenient package. 

 

If you are interested in learning more about how to protect the fabric and coating of your vehicle, get in touch through our Prestige Detailing contact form and we’ll be glad to point you in the right direction with personalised tips and product/tool recommendations. The paint depth analysis test can be carried out after you set up an appointment through the form, free of charge when paying us a visit at our premises.

 

We offer product application as an in-house, paid service, so if you’re finding it difficult to fit it into your schedule, or lack the necessary know-how – or simply need guidance – we’re here to help.

 

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    The Rub: Why Detail Your Car or Motorcycle?

    If you’re on this page, chances are that cars are not just a way of getting from here to wherever you need to be. Rather, the process of maintaining and fine-tuning your vehicle is part and parcel of the enjoyment you derive from it. Like a fitness regime or regular grooming, it gives a definite sense of progression and achievement to your life.

     

    Car detailing slots neatly into the lives of individuals with such a mindframe. It provides well-defined guidelines for what is and is not suitable for the maintenance of their car, and establishes clear ways to approach issues with their vehicle’s upkeep. This is why do-it-yourselfers and car enthusiasts alike are drawn to detailing.

     

     

    Most importantly, car detailing is a measurable and scientific way of looking at every aspect of the forward-facing components of your vehicle, ensuring you always put your best foot forward when it comes to the original investment you made when buying it. The bonus, of course, is that by using the best detailing equipment and products – as well as the right techniques and practices –  you’ll be saving yourself a lot of headaches (such as rust, contagion build-up and swirl marks) in the process.

     

    The Detail: Detailing vs Hand Washing Services

    To drive the point home: If you’re not satisfied by the plainly serviceable (the classic Maltese “u iva!”) then car detailing is definitely a field worthy of your consideration. Detailing focuses on what is optimal; unlike a car wash service, which is geared for functionality, detailers go above and beyond.

     

    For this reason, broad terms like ‘car shampoo’ and ‘cloths’ go out the window to be replaced by phrases like ‘cutting pastes’, ‘compounds’ and ‘microfibre cloths’. But it’s not just about nomenclature. In fact, another way of looking at the difference between car detailing and your typical hand wash service is that with the former you’re applying forethought and careful application while with the latter you’re looking at ad-hoc solutions at best. Would you rather be fighting constant fires or tackling the problem at the root?

    With detailing, in other words, there is no one-size-fits all solution. The tools used in the process betray this approach: paint analysis (which determines the unique qualities of your clearcoat pre-application) and specialized machine processes are there to ensure the best possible outcomes. And as a bonus, the negative outcomes of a traditional hand wash are avoided and replaced by longer-lasting protection and a car that is much easier to maintain.

     

    The Finish: Get the Ball Rolling

    If we’ve successfully sold you on the benefits of car detailing over hand or automated car wash services – or piqued your curiosity at the very least – then you’re in luck. Believe it or not, detailing has been around since the late 1800s when German horse carriage owners started protecting their livelihoods by coating their vehicles in animal fat. Now – over a hundred years later – the technology and processes involved have evolved to the point where a critical mass of expert knowledge can be found and accessed freely online.

    If you’ve found your new hobby, in other words, there has never been a better time to gain access to how to make your car anything but a means to an end, protecting your investment in the process.

    At Prestige Detailing we provide professional in-house detailing services and are the official distributors of GYEON products for the Maltese market. If you have any questions for our detailing team, feel free to get in touch using the contact form below.

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      The Rub: Should I use car wax or polish on my car?

      We’re asked this question a lot at our studio here at Prestige Detailing, so by addressing it here we thought we’d save you some bother looking elsewhere online.

      Deeper into this post, we will explore the qualities of both in a bit more detail and give our recommendations as to which products we recommend and some other useful pointers if you’re seeking to carry out the work in your own garage.

      The short answer to the question is that the use of wax or polish – or both in some instances – depends on what you are trying to achieve.

      Polish is a surface cleaner which is excellent at expelling dirt and grime and bringing out the natural shine of your car’s paint job. This is especially true when your auto has been exposed to elements like dust from construction sites, exhaust, brake dust and so on for an extended period of time. These contagions accumulate detracting from your car’s sheen as they do.

      Wax, on the other hand, is a gritty substance whose mission statement is filling in and smoothing over scratches on your car paint as it is carefully worked into the lacquer on your car, before applying – where necessary – the finishing touches with a spot of polish and a good elbow rub.

      Again, the product you choose to use will depend on the issue you would like to correct. At times you may need just one product (like when you think your car’s colour is duller than usual, in which case use glaze), while at others you may need polish to take care of scratches without needing to go to a sprayer to correct the issue; both wax and polish would be used if both issues are present or when you need to treat the excess elements that can result from detailing your car.

      There are many many different methods, tools etc to help with scratch removal. Feel free to refer your concern to us by dropping by our studio at Bilom Service Station in Luqa so that we can check for scratch depth with a paint thickness gauge. This will help you  establish your lacquer’s  “safe zone” to determine the best course of action and the best treatment for your scratch. 

       

      The Detail 1: Wax vs. Polish

      Here is a closer look at the qualities of polish and wax listed individually to help you with making the distinction:

      WAX

      • Is the most traditional form of car paint protection.
      • Can be used on any colour of car.
      • Some wax products contain outstanding hydrophobic properties, shine and gloss. GYEON Q² WAX, for example, has carnauba wax infused with fluorine; other traditional types of wax may contain other elements. Read in and around the properties of these products to determine what is ideal for your car’s needs.
      • Wax alone will not correct scratches.

      POLISH aka cutting compounds 

      • Polish provides excellent scratch removal combined, in some products, with a very low level of dust.
      • Consider using an appropriate cutting paste when it comes to polishing your car depending on how deep the scratch(es) is/are.
      • Cutting pastes are the fine, abrasive elements contained in polishing products that smooth over the first layer of protection (clearcoat) on your car’s paint job to eliminate the scratch.
      • Pre-Coating preparation: consider using a water-based solvent to clear the area you will be polishing so that nothing gets in between your car’s first line of defence and the polishing process.
      • Go for cutting compounds that have no silicone or fillers.
      • Can be used on any colour of car.

      The Detail 2: Can I fix my scratch using polish alone?

      There are different types of scratches, ranging from superficial ones to eye-watering deep channels. Scratches can affect the resale value of your car, or, if you are a petrolhead like us, and cannot dream of parting with your car, your mental health. Unfortunately, like everything else in life, polish is not a silver bullet and results will vary depending on the quality of polish you choose as well as the depth of the scratch itself.

       

      Whatever the case may be, there are different types of polishing compounds that can completely restore the damage done, albeit deeper cuts are more troublesome and may require other solutions. Consider the following points when analyzing your next step:

      • Wax alone will not fix the scratch on your car; polish is what you need in such instances.
      • Scratches can be the cause of bad washing techniques or tools.
      • Some glazes with fillers will give you around 6 months of durability by concealing light swirl marks or light scratches.
      • Have your car machine corrected, or if a machine polisher (buffer) is not readily available, try a medium cutting compound, a pad and some good old-fashioned elbow grease.
      • Once the scratch is corrected, one can perform a safe-wash to remove any polish residues and apply wax as a form of protection.
      • WAX IS NOT BULLETPROOF AND CARS CAN STILL BE SCRATCHED.

       

      The Finish: Which car polish is suited for my problem?

       

      There are multiple polishing compounds on the market that might help you with the annoying scratches present on your car’s surfaces. What we find best, however, is starting with a light polishing compound, such as Gyeon’s Q²M Polish, and a polishing pad. Q²M Polish does not need to be overworked due to its water-based formula and will leave your car with a great, glossy finish. Due to its medium cutting power, Q²M Polish is a great product for single-step correction.

       

      How to use Q² WAX: Make sure to wash and degrease the surface properly for maximum performance. Apply a moderate and uniform layer over dry paintwork. Leave it to cure for a minimum of 30 minutes before wipe-off.

       

      New GYEON Q² WAX!

       

      Source: GYEON Official Youtube Channel

       

      Should the scratch still be visible, (annoying, we know!) you could then go for something higher in cutting power, such as Q²M Compound. Q²M Compound is considered to be an industry-leading cutting paste and will deliver excellent performance and a high level of scratch removal. Trust us, it’s used globally by car hobbyists and professional detailers alike with superior results when applied correctly.

       

      In closing, here are some tools & products that are readily available for purchase from our store for your consideration:

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